It’s a known fact that Central Saint Martins’ MA course is well versed in fostering the fashion stars of the future; just look at its list of alumni for proof: Christopher Kane, Ashish, Roksanda Ilincic, Louise Goldin and Marios Schwab are just a few showing at LFW this season.
And this year’s turn out should prove no exception. As ever, the Friday night show was the hottest ticket in town: the queue scaled the length of the tent and only half of those made it in.
There were two distinct themes that ran throughout the seventeen collections on show. Bold, structured designs cropped up with big shoulders, cartoon like detailing or built up-silhouettes in often vibrant colours, as seen in the work of Laura Mackness, Charlotte La Roche and menswear designer Matteo Bigliardi.
But in other cases the designs were diaphanous in jersey and feather-light silk, billowing like sails down the catwalk. Katie Greenwood countered her elegant designs with a sportswear edge while Abigail Briggs opted for a statement shade of deep plum.
The overriding silhouette, whether structured or not, was long, long, long. Ankle-skimming or floor-length, there wasn’t much in the way of thigh on show and I wonder if it’s too much of a cliché to flag up that age-old sartorial observation: that hemlines rise and fall with the economy.
One designer who paid no heed to this though was the winner of the Harrods Design Award, David Koma, whose high-octane, off-the-wall glamour dazzled the end of the show. Black mini-dresses were adorned with mirrored panels in undulating architectural shapes, a bit of rubber thrown in for good measure.
Imogen Evesonsyndicated from t5m, click through for full report and more on London Fashion Week:
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